|
|
A
Little More Magic
>
Art Tips & Tutorials >
Art Tutorial #1

|
<<< The first step of any artwork I do
is usually a quick thumbnail sketch on anything I can find
whenever the idea flits into my head. This is usually quite
messy and involves me working out the image into the correct
shape and features, which can be neatly drawn later in a proper
sketch. This painting, however, developed when I was trying to
draw something else...the idea took over and I ended up with
something quite different to my original aim! But knowing the
power of inspiration, I knew I just had to go with it and so
ended up with the drawing you can just make out on the right.
This is drawn on highest quality 300gsm Smooth Arches
Watercolour paper. The heavier your paper the better it accepts
lots of water...and there will be lots! You can see here that
I've taped the paper to a board with normal masking tape (you
can use other methods of fastening your paper to a hard, flat
surface, but I like this one best). The board protects whatever
surface I'm working on because I don't always paint in the same
place and I've ruined too many carpets already! The tape helps
to hold the paper still while I paint on it and helps to hold
the edges flat (they tend to curl when they get too wet).
You can also see that
I have already inked in the butterflies using a black Indian
ink. These are monarch butterflies, so I wanted to establish
their strong markings early. The mermaid herself and the rock
she leans on have been inked in a Sepia ink. Notice that I have
not drawn in ink any horizon lines or waves or any of the eater.
I wanted to keep these areas soft and free for when I paint them
later. After inking I have
applied a masking fluid (or Frisket) to the areas I don't want
to get paint on when I do the next step. These include the top
half of the mermaid and the butterflies. The bottom half of the
painting will be easy to avoid without applying masking fluid. |
|
>>> The
next step is to start applying paint. I work mostly from tubes
of paint, as I can squeeze them out onto my palette (seen on the
left) and mix them as I go. You can also work from pans, which
are just as good and can often be a bit more handy than tubes.
To
paint the sky, which I want to have a sunset or sunrise sort of
feeling, I mix various shades of Blue, Red and Yellow in my
palette, making sure to have plenty of paint ready to go: you
don't want to stop in the middle of a wash to mix more! Then
taking a big, soft brush made of natural fibres, I wet the top
half of my paper: the area I want the paint to go in. Then
slightly holding my board at an angle to help the paint run down
rather than pool, I run large, generous strokes from left to
right and top to bottom, taking care to catch up the run from
the last stroke in my next. As I go down the page I gradually
move from a purpley-blue to red to yellow, being careful to
blend gradually. This is all done in one big hit: any stopping
or drying or redoing will result in a messy wash and an uneven
tone. This is why the best way to go about this step is just to
let go and have fun! Paint with strong colours, remembering that
colours tend to fade as they dry, so that you don't have to go
over it again. |
|
<<<
After the sky is painted, I turn to the sea. I often like to
do the background before a figure to give it a sense of
place and to establish the colour scheme and lighting. I'm
leaving the masking fluid on at this stage because I've
accidentally splashed paint onto a crucial area before!
The sea until now was not drawn rigidly in and I left it to
my intuition and senses to work out the shapes of the waves
and splashes now. Taking a soft, medium-sized brush and
working with hues of blue and green, I loosely sketch in the
colour of the waves, leaving black patches of paper showing
through in areas where there is foam or splashing, like
against the rocks and on the surface of the water where the
foam breaks and stretches over the crests of the waves. It
can help to look at references such as photos (or real waves
if you're near them) at this stage to get it just right.
It's not too important at this stage to make it look
perfect: I'm just sketching it out to get the feel and
movement of the waves. I will fill them out with deeper hues
and more definition later.
You can also just see a crumpled tissue on the right hand
side of the photo...never paint without one! Some clean
tissues and clean water are absolute staples when painting
with watercolours: they can easily mop up mistakes, dilute
heavy colours, remove excess water from a brush and
generally make your painting experience a lot easier! |
|
>>>
You can see that in this next photo I have defined the
waves with some heavier colour (more paint, less water)
and some shading in the troughs between waves. You will
also notice that the waves and foam become less defined
as they recede into the distance. This is because as
objects get further away they lose definition, intensity
of colour and tend to melt into one another more than
close up objects...just look at some distant mountains
or a city horizon compared to your immediate
surroundings to see this happenning. I've also started
to add some extra splashes on top of the waves with some
white gouache. I do this to create some splashes that
are cleaner and sharper than the white areas I have left
already. Dragging gouache quickly across a dry surface
with a brush in the direction the splash is moving in
creates the misty, splash effect you can see starting to
happen on the right side of the rock.
Now comes my favourite step! When the paint is
completely dry I can pull off the masking fluid! Apart
from the fact that this is just fun to do, I love
revealing the clean white surface underneath that I now
get to paint! |
|
<<< Once
all the masking fluid is removed, I use some yellow and red
paint to fill in the colours on the butterflies' wings. While
they dry I take a blue hue and paint in the shape and contours
of the rock, applying more paint in the shadow areas, such as
around the base and under the mermaid. You can see this step in
the inset.
After
the blue paint is dry, I take some purple and follow the shadows
again to give them a warmer depth and bring the rock out a bit
more from the background. Slight shades of green are also
applied in some areas, to suggest the wet rock reflecting a
green-blue ocean, and then a general wash of a yellowy-brown
colour such as Yellow Ochre is applied to make the rock more
earthy. The seaweed, starfish and shells on the rock are also
painted in at this stage.
You
may also notice a slight colour to the mermaid's skin tone in
this photo. That's because I have started to shade it in with a
technique of different colour layers used by many watercolour
artists to achieve a warmth and depth to human skin. If you look
at your own skin, you will notice that it is not a flat colour,
but is made up of lots of translucent layers: you can see hints
of the blue and red from underlying veins and tissue through the
surface. The first step in painting this is to fill in the
shadow areas with a cooler tone such as a blue or purple. You
can see that the shadows get deeper underneath the mermaid's
hair and chin. Take care to soften the edges of shadows by
blending out with clean water. |
|
>>>
After
the blue tones are dry, the figure is shaded all over with a red
tone. The colour is not applied in one flat wash however: it is
meant to give shape to the figure. You will notice that over the
top of the blue layer, this red layer begins to give depth to
the shadow areas. Less colour is applied to highlighted areas,
or areas where the light hits most, such as the tops of the
mermaid's shoulders and the sides of her torso. I have also
applied more colour to areas where the light shines partly
through the skin, making it semi-translucent, such as the
fingers and ears. If you hold your hand over a strong light
source, you will notice the same effect in yourself. Similarly,
I have added more colour to flushed areas such as the mermaid's
cheeks, and areas where the skin is thicker or bunched, such as
her elbows and the arch of her back. You can see that with the
red tone added, the body starts to take on a much more realistic
effect. |
|
<<< Once
this stage is dry, I begin to paint the scales of her tail and
her top in. On the mermaid's top you will notice the similar
technique to the last steps of applying darker shades, or
thicker paint, to the shadow areas, and letting some of the
white paper show through lighter layers of paint in the
highlight areas. This creates a sense of shape and roundness.
The
tail was initially painted with a small brush in tight, careful
scales. When they were all finished however, they looked too
flat and controlled and not very natural, so the gaps in between
were filled out with a wash of the same colour. This is a good
lesson in washing over thick areas of paint...they run when you
add more water! I lost a lot of the definition I had created in
individual scales, and you can see parts of both in the tail to
the left. |
|
>>> After
creating a blotted, flat colour in the tail in the last step, I
took a clean brush with some clean water and used careful
strokes to lift some colour back off the paper, to add some
highlight and shape to the tail. In the picture on the right,
this looks very rough and unfinished, but will be softened out
when I re-add some scale detail later.
I have
also started to paint the hair. Initially I just use a yellow
colour to suggest where the highlights and shadows are. You can
see more detail in the inset. To paint the hair I always pull my
brush in the direction of hair growth, letting the stroke taper
at the end until it lifts from the paper. My brush stroke is
fullest where the hair is in shadow, and tapers away to nothing
where the hair begins to move into light. When the hair is
curling, twisting or moving over or under itself as hair does,
try to think about how the light hits each piece. It will be
different depending on the angle of the hair as it curls.
You
will also notice that I haven't painted each individual strand
of hair: to do so would create a bird's nest or a haystack
effect on the poor mermaid's head! When we look at human hair,
or animal hair, from even a slight distance away, our eye
catches not each individual hair, but rather parts of hair, or
groups such as you can see in the photo on the right. Individual
curls, strands or 'fly-aways' can be added around the edges of
the hair so that it is not a flat block. |
|
<<< When
the first layer of hair is dry, I darken it with a golden brown
colour, working from the shadows out and not dragging my stroke
as far as I did with the yellow. This helps the brown to blend
with the yellow and push the highlights to the surface away from
the shadows and fold of the hair. This extra layers of colour
adds depth and shine to the hair: nobody's hair is ever just one
colour. Hair changes according to where the light hits it and
what colours it reflects. The darker golden brown colour also
serves to bring the hair out into a better relationship with the
colours surrounding it: its tones match the yellowy-oranges in
the butterflies' wings and some of the shells and starfish on
the rock. I have also painted in the hair decoration details and
further defined the mermaid's eyebrows and facial features,
adding some freckles along her cheekbone, tinting the blue of
her eye, flushing her lips with a scarlet colour (careful to
keep the edges soft and not like harsh lipstick) and touching up
her eyelashes to be a bit darker.
You
can also see that I've added some more scales to the tail. I
waited until it had dried completely and then used quite thick,
almost undiluted watercolour paint to layers some crisp scales
over the top, working them in more lightly over the highlighted
areas so that they were less sharp and unnatural. You can see
that this effect gives the tail a wet, reflective shine look as
the sea water drips off it.
A
crucial step in the skin painting was only now completed. There
is no reason to wait this long when doing it: in fact it is
better to complete this step straight after the red tone has
dried. I only waited this long because while the skin was drying
I began painting something else and got carried away! The final
step for magical, realistic skin tone is to add, after the
purpley-blue and the red, a light wash of a golden-brown colour
such as Yellow Oxide. This anchors the reds and purples you have
created into a more uniform skin tone and gives the skin the
glow and natural "skin colour" that many people try to achieve
with a flat brown colour alone.
The
last step in the painting is to add the water spray and splashes
with white gouache. I had to wait until the very end of the
painting to do this because the spray will be on top of all the
other layers, especially around the rock and the mermaid's tail.
Using white gouache, I brush up and away from the waves as they
crash against the rock and mermaid, and I spatter some paint
around the tops with an old toothbrush to suggest the sea spray
flying in the air. And then she's done! The next picture is the
finished and scanned artwork: see what a difference scanning
makes compared with bad photography! |

The finished
piece: "Bring Me Tidings"

All text, design and graphics on
this page are copyright Kirstin Mills and may not be published, redistributed or
copied without permission.

|
NOTE:
Don't miss out on our free monthly
discounts, news and special offers available
to Newsletter Subscribers only: sign up to
receive the free email newsletter below. |
kirstinmills.jpg)
|
|
|